My first High Peak was Colvin, but not because I chose it to be, it was more like we came upon it. I was hiking with my father and mother up and over Indian Head and Fish Hawk Cliffs when I saw the sign for Colvin. I remember saying, “I think that’s one of the highest peaks, want to go? It’s not too far away,” so we did. We summited in a thick fog, very surprised at how it wasn’t “just right there,” but we were hooked. My dad and I would slowly peck away at the list. My dad and I never did finish them together, his knees wouldn’t allow that to happen, so we celebrate being 25ers together. Over the years I have revisited all the peaks, either of my own accord, hiking with others as they complete their list, or by guiding. To date I have compiled five full rounds, two of which are in the winter. Now as I approach my 6th round, which will happen sometime in the next couple years, I still have a deep love for the peaks.
Over the years as a guide and during my bout of working in outdoor retail I got many questions from visitors about the peaks. Aside from the overwhelming questions about Mount Marcy I also got inquiries about where someone new to the game should start. Unfortunately it’s not as simple as saying “go here, then here, and then finish here.” The game of finishing all 46 High Peaks plays out differently for everyone.
Know your limits
First of all you need to look at yourself very critically. Are you in good shape, do you eat healthy, are you active on a regular basis? These are all good questions to ask yourself. Don’t say, “Well, I work out all the time,” that doesn’t always cut it; it doesn’t prepare you for hiking up a steep mountain. However, it doesn’t hurt either. Once you decide what your limits are you can decide if you want to start out easy, moderate, or jump all in with both feet.
What’s the perfect choice for a first climb?
The High Peaks can be very intimidating to some hikers who have limited or no backcountry experience, but if you make the correct choices it shouldn’t be overwhelming. Yes, I would agree many of the High Peaks can be a huge undertaking and should not be your first choice. Many of the High Peaks will require 10-12 hours of time in the woods and well over 12-miles; not a typical work day. However, with any mountain there are a few things to keep in mind before you go out - starting with: am I equipped with the correct gear? How am I going to protect myself from the cold, windy summits? Do I have the proper nutrition? What’s the weather going to be like? Did I tell people where I was going? The list honestly goes on and on. But just as important, do I have the ability to tackle a High Peak or should I get a couple smaller peaks under my belt first. Many, who tackle the High Peaks, jump right in and don’t choose the right first peak. This has at times made for a very unpleasant hiking experience and removed the will to want to go further down the list. Then again, many who visit the area decide to go up smaller peaks first to “get their legs under them.”
For example, Pitchoff, Hurricane, VanHoevenberg, and McKenzie are all great places to start if you choose to start a tad bit smaller. Here is a short list of 46er peaks I recommend you might want to consider.
Easiest Hike
Cascade and Porter Mountains - 6.2 miles, round trip
This duo is the easiest of the High Peaks and in most cases can both be summited in less than a full day’s time. Starting from Route 73 the trail begins easy as it skirts along the steep slopes. Eventually it gets a bit steeper and steadier but with small shelves in the trail to break up the constant climbing. Just shy of the summit of Cascade you meet an intersection with Porter on the right. Many summit Cascade first and then Porter. Cascade will become very rocky and windy once you break through the trees. To grab Porter on your way out you will have a slight descent to a moderate ascent to an open summit with a great view of Cascade in the distance.
Moderate Hike
Phelps Mountain – 8.4 miles, round trip
Phelps has some serious bang for the buck, while the distance is a bit longer, the climb is relative short – but steep. Leaving from the Adirondack Loj you will have a nice stroll to and past Marcy Dam. Past Marcy Dam the grade slowly climbs, hardly noticeable, but you are gaining elevation. At the Phelps Mountain Trail intersection you will start a serious climb. You will top out on the summit and be at a large open ledge with some very fine views of the High Peak Region.
More Difficult Hike
Mount Marcy – 14.4 miles, Round Trip
The draw of this peak being the tallest mountain in the state shouldn’t mean that you need to go right at it. However, with that being said, it’s only a more difficult hike due to distance. The terrain isn’t overly steep or demanding; you will be out for a bit longer than some others. From the Loj you will hike past Marcy Dam and slowly climb beyond there to a steep section that leads to Indian Falls. Past Indian Falls the grade is mostly moderate, with only a couple steeper sections. You will be above tree line on this guy for a while so be prepared for cooler temperatures and heavy winds.
The Trailless High Peaks
So that’s a starting point to working on the 46 High Peaks, is it a bible to follow, no. Only you know your abilities, but it’s a good direction for you to start. If I could please just say a couple more things as a quick note? 1) Consider how you want to finish your list. Do you want an easy peak where it’s accessible for the entire family, like Whiteface? If so, leave it. 2) DO NOT leave all the hard peaks for last. I know it’s easy to head out and grab those easier ones, but you will thank yourself in the end.
Want more information on the High Peaks – stop by a local bookstore and pick up a map and guide book. Prefer to have a guide for your first ascent – there are excellent guide services in Lake Placid with 46ers on staff. Have fun, be safe, take lots of pictures and come back to us for more mountain hijinks.
